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Free Crochet Pumpkin Pattern for Beginners

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A ribbed amigurumi pumpkin using back-loop stitches for texture, with a simple stem on top.

Updated 2026 · US terms · About 4in / 10cm across

A small crochet pumpkin in orange yarn with a brown stem, styled with autumn leaves

Every autumn I teach this crochet pumpkin pattern in my classes, and it's the project that finally makes the magic ring click for people, because you can see the ribbed texture appear round by round. The mistake I see most often is working the back-loop-only rounds with loose tension, so the ridges come out faint and the pumpkin looks like a plain orange ball. I always tell my students to drop down a hook size if the ribs look soft. I remember one woman who arrived with a bag of leftover orange yarn from years of other projects and left with three pumpkins and a brand-new confidence in her shaping. It uses almost no yarn and takes about an hour.

The back loop is the whole trick. By working into only the back loop of each stitch, you leave the front loop free, and those little stranded loops build into the vertical grooves that make a pumpkin read as a pumpkin instead of a beach ball. It's a small move that does an enormous amount of work, and it's the reason I keep coming back to this pattern every October when I need a table full of matching squash in an afternoon.

Materials

  • Small amount of orange worsted-weight yarn (about 30–40 yards)
  • Small amount of green or brown yarn, for the stem
  • 4.0mm hook
  • Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • Stitch marker, scissors, and a yarn needle

Abbreviations (US terms)

Abbr.Means
scSingle crochet
st(s)Stitch(es)
inc2 sc in same stitch (increase)
decSc 2 sts together (decrease)
BLOBack loop only
rnd(s)Round(s)

See our abbreviations glossary for the full list including UK terms.

Cozy fall scene with pumpkins and wool decor in a woven basket, ideal for seasonal themes.

Gauge

Gauge isn't critical for this small project — the goal is tight, even stitches that hide the stuffing rather than an exact measurement.

Notes

  • Written in US terms, worked in a continuous spiral, same shaping as our mini amigurumi ball pattern.
  • Working through the back loop only (BLO) on the body rounds is what creates the ribbed pumpkin texture.
  • A short crochet chain or a chenille stem substitute both work for the stem — see the FAQ below.

Pattern

Body, Round 1

Using orange yarn, make a magic ring, 6 sc into ring, place marker. (6 sts)

Round-by-round stitch counts for the pumpkin body: six in a magic ring, growing through increases to twenty-four, then back-loop-only straight rounds before the decreases mirror the way back down.
Body, Round 2

Inc in every st around. (12 sts)

Body, Round 3

[sc 1, inc] around. (18 sts)

Body, Round 4

Working in BLO throughout this round, [sc 2, inc] around. (24 sts)

Body, Rounds 5–7

Working in BLO throughout, sc in every st around, no increases. (24 sts each round)

Body, Round 8

Working in BLO throughout, [sc 2, dec] around. (18 sts)

Begin stuffing firmly.

Body, Round 9

Working in BLO throughout, [sc 1, dec] around. (12 sts)

Add final stuffing to fill evenly.

Stem

Switch to green or brown yarn. Chain 8, then sc in the 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. Fasten off, leaving a short tail for sewing.

Finishing

Close the body opening by threading the orange tail through the front loops of the last round and pulling tight. Sew the stem securely into the centre of the top opening. Weave in all ends.

A beginner amigurumi tutorial for a crochet pumpkin, useful for seeing the ribbed shaping and stuffing technique.

Getting defined ribs: the back-loop texture shows up most clearly with a slightly tighter tension than usual. If the ribs look faint, try a hook one size smaller for the body rounds.

Yarn & colour choice

A smooth worsted-weight yarn shows the back-loop ribs best, so I steer people away from fluffy or heavily variegated yarns for this one. A tweedy or marled orange can look lovely, but anything with a long halo softens the grooves until the pumpkin reads as a fuzzy blob. Cotton gives you crisp, defined ridges and no stretch, while acrylic is fine if you keep the tension firm — the difference shows most in how sharply the vertical lines stand out. If you're unsure how a given ball will behave, check our yarn weight guide and swatch a couple of BLO rounds before committing to the whole body.

Cotton gives crisp defined ribs with no stretch, while acrylic works only if you keep the tension firm so the grooves stay visible.

For colour, I don't stick to pure orange. A burnt orange, a muted rust, even a mustard or cream pumpkin all read as autumn when the ribbing is there. Make a set in three different oranges and they'll look like a farm stand rather than three copies of the same squash. A scrap of brown or green for the stem is all you need to finish the illusion.

Making pumpkins bigger or smaller

The body grows and shrinks by the same symmetrical logic as our amigurumi ball. To make a larger pumpkin, add one more increase round before the straight BLO rounds (so you hit 30 stitches instead of 24), work one extra even round, then mirror the same number of decrease rounds at the bottom. Keep every added round in back loop only so the ribs continue cleanly. For a smaller pumpkin, stop increasing at 18 stitches and adjust the even and decrease rounds to match. The stem can stay the same size either way — a slightly chunky stem on a small pumpkin looks intentional rather than wrong.

The pumpkin pattern at three sizes: stop increasing at 18 stitches for a small pumpkin, 24 for the version as written, or 30 for a larger one.

Autumn decor & gifting

This is the project I suggest when someone wants to hand-make their seasonal decorating instead of buying it. A bowl of three or five pumpkins in different sizes and shades takes an evening and outlasts any real gourd by months. Because they're stuffed and squishy, they sit nicely on a mantel or in a centrepiece without rolling. They also travel well as a host gift — I've tucked one into a dish of wrapped chocolates more than once and it's always the first thing people comment on. If you're making several as gifts, work them in the recipient's own kitchen colours rather than your own, and it instantly feels personal.

Stuffing

Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill, 32oz

Enough for many small seasonal projects like this one, staying fluffy without clumping over time.

View on Amazon →

Common mistakes & fixes

Pumpkin looks like a plain ball: the back-loop-only rounds got skipped or worked into both loops. Go back and confirm rounds 4 through 9 are all worked through the back loop only.
Three pumpkin mistakes and their fixes: a plain ball from skipped back-loop rounds, faint ridges from loose tension, and stuffing poking through stitches that are too open.
Ridges are faint: tension is too loose on the BLO rounds. Drop down a hook size for the body only and the grooves will sharpen noticeably without changing the stitch count.
Stuffing pokes through: the stitches are too open. Use a hook a size smaller than the yarn label suggests so the fabric closes up, then fill firmly rather than loosely.
Lopsided or lumpy shape: the stuffing was added in one go. Add it a little at a time from round 8 onward, pushing it into the sides evenly before you close.
Stem flops over or won't stay put: the stem needs a firmer anchor. Sew it through the base of the stem and down into the body several times, or push a short chenille stem into the top opening before closing for a stem that stands up.
Visible gap at the top: the final closing stitches weren't pulled evenly. Thread the tail through the front loops of the last round and draw it snug in stages, not in one hard tug.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get the ribbed pumpkin shape in crochet?

The ribbed look comes from working back loop only stitches through most of the body rounds, which creates visible horizontal ridges similar to a real pumpkin's grooves.

What can I use for a pumpkin stem if I don't want to crochet one?

A short length of brown or green chenille stem (pipe cleaner), bent and trimmed to size, works as a quick substitute and can simply be pushed into the top opening before closing.

How many pumpkins does one skein of yarn make?

A single skein of worsted-weight yarn typically makes 2 to 3 pumpkins at this size, depending on the total yardage of the skein.

How do I make my crochet pumpkin bigger?

Add one more increase round to the body and work the matching extra rounds and decreases symmetrically, keeping the back-loop-only stitch throughout. You'll also want a little more yarn and stuffing for the larger size.

Can I use fluffy or textured yarn for a crochet pumpkin?

You can, but the ribbed back-loop texture tends to disappear in fuzzy yarns, and the ridges are what make it read as a pumpkin. A smooth worsted-weight yarn shows the shaping most clearly.

How long does this crochet pumpkin take to make?

Around an hour once you know the shaping, and much of that is the stuffing. It's short enough to make a matching set of three in a single evening.

How do I wash a crochet pumpkin?

Spot-clean or hand-wash gently in cool water and reshape while it dries. Don't machine-wash stuffed pieces, since the stuffing can clump and the ribs can lose their definition.

Written by Nora Fenwick

Nora has been teaching crochet for 12 years, from absolute beginners to people coming back to the craft after decades away. She started CrochetGuides to write the clear, honest instructions she wishes she'd had when she was learning — the ones that actually work the first time.

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